Inside the store
Last summer, I visited the pastry chef Jacques Genin in Paris. Although I only worked with him for two months. He is the person who taught and influenced me the most.
Before we were about to leave Paris, I finally got a Sunday morning break from the kid. I planned to go to the FNAC bookstore, but metro line four was closed. I decided to take a random walk. I wanted to visit Red kids Market (Marché des Enfants Rouges) and maybe, see Monsieur Jacques Genin.
I used to go to this market all the time to have lunch or buy groceries. The market stayed the same, lively and filled with noise and joy. I picked an orchid as a gift for him. Then I walked to Monsieur Genin’s store. Unlike other pastry shops, his store looks very simple. There is no name, showcase, or colorful painting, only his white and grey logo. Yet he is very famous for his chocolate and caramel and has supplied all the luxury hotels in Paris with his caramel and chocolate. He also makes some of the best pastries in Paris, such as chocolate eclairs, lemon tart, flan, mille-feuille, etc.
After I picked a few things in the store, I asked the young lady: Can I see Monsieur Genin? She said: No, he is very busy. I said: I was an intern here about ten years ago and wanted to give him the flower. She smiled and went upstairs to tell Genin. Then she came down and said: Monsieur asked you to come. I went with her.
Everything went naturally. The kitchen looked familiar, yet not quite. Monsieur Genin was working by himself on Sunday as usual. He greeted me with bisous. I told him I finally had my home bakery. He said that it took time and we needed patience. I told him French pastries in the bay are very expensive. He asked: are they good? I said they were ok. Then I showed him photos of my cakes and cookies. My hands were shaking, probably too excited. Then he smelled that his caramel got burnt. He threw it away immediately, turned on the faucet to flush the pot, and started a new one. He did not stop working while we were talking. He has made some Paris-Brest, finished four lemon tarts, and then started to put small puffs on the Saint-Honore. After a while, I said goodbye to him and left.
I should have asked him some question or at least take a photo. But I didn’t. Seeing him gave me the answer I was looking for. As he used to teach me:
Continue to work.
Be patient.
Always keep in mind hygiene is the most important thing.
And keep doing it.
I used to go to this market all the time to have lunch or buy groceries. The market stayed the same, lively and filled with noise and joy. I picked an orchid as a gift for him. Then I walked to Monsieur Genin’s store. Unlike other pastry shops, his store looks very simple. There is no name, showcase, or colorful painting, only his white and grey logo. Yet he is very famous for his chocolate and caramel and has supplied all the luxury hotels in Paris with his caramel and chocolate. He also makes some of the best pastries in Paris, such as chocolate eclairs, lemon tart, flan, mille-feuille, etc.
After I picked a few things in the store, I asked the young lady: Can I see Monsieur Genin? She said: No, he is very busy. I said: I was an intern here about ten years ago and wanted to give him the flower. She smiled and went upstairs to tell Genin. Then she came down and said: Monsieur asked you to come. I went with her.
Everything went naturally. The kitchen looked familiar, yet not quite. Monsieur Genin was working by himself on Sunday as usual. He greeted me with bisous. I told him I finally had my home bakery. He said that it took time and we needed patience. I told him French pastries in the bay are very expensive. He asked: are they good? I said they were ok. Then I showed him photos of my cakes and cookies. My hands were shaking, probably too excited. Then he smelled that his caramel got burnt. He threw it away immediately, turned on the faucet to flush the pot, and started a new one. He did not stop working while we were talking. He has made some Paris-Brest, finished four lemon tarts, and then started to put small puffs on the Saint-Honore. After a while, I said goodbye to him and left.
I should have asked him some question or at least take a photo. But I didn’t. Seeing him gave me the answer I was looking for. As he used to teach me:
Continue to work.
Be patient.
Always keep in mind hygiene is the most important thing.
And keep doing it.
Chocolate
Caramel candy
去年夏天有幸去了巴黎，每天外出观光，也等于换了个地方带孩子。周日上午好不容易有半天自己的时间，本来打算去FNAC书店逛一逛，结果四号线周日关闭。中午又约了朋友，逛街时间有点紧。于是打算放松一下，在附近散散步，顺便看看红孩儿市场（Marché des enfants rouges）和Jacques Genin。
红孩儿市场比以前还兴旺，多了好些饭店，外面是书店和花店，还有卖碟的。逛了一圈后，买了一盆兰花当做礼物，不管能否见着。其实我去巴黎的目的就是想见他。
于是信步走到他的店。店外朴素得不像是一家高档甜点店，没有招牌，没有橱窗展示，只有灰色和白色的logo。走进店里，可能是周日的早上，更是有些冷清，光线有些暗淡，除了一如既往地摆放的焦糖，巧克力，水果软糖之外，多了好些榛果酱巧克力糖果和方形巧克力。原来喝茶的位置变成甜点柜台，但种类很少，只有一个flan和一些巧克力塔。于是我买了焦糖，两盒巧克力，一块flan，一个覆盆子塔。
好不容易买完了，问店员：Genin先生在不在，可不可以见几分钟。回答说：他正在忙着，没有时间。我说我十年前是这里的实习生，想送花给他。于是店员欣然上楼通报。回来说Genin先生让我上楼。我毫不犹豫地就上楼了。
跟许多餐厅的厨房在地下室或者深藏在店后面不一样，Genin先生的厨房是在二楼，有宽大的玻璃窗，良好的自然光和街景。进去之后百感交集，多么熟悉而有久违的地方。只有先生一个人在工作。我不确定他是否还认识我。是啊，十几年前，只呆了两月的实习生，之后没有任何联系。多少实习生走马灯似的来来去去。但是他很热情，先是行贴面礼，然后问我怎么样。我跟他说起来，在美国用了十年拿到绿卡，十一年以后终于有了自己的家庭小店。他边听边准备Paris-Brest。我说不知道什么时候可以开店经济独立，他说必须要有耐心（Il fait la patience）。我又告诉他旧金山的法式甜点卖很贵。他只是问，那好吃吗。我说一般。我又给他看我做的草莓蛋糕和饼干。我拿手机的手都有些颤抖了，因为很激动。这时候他的焦糖烧焦了，他熬不犹豫地倒掉烧坏的焦糖，开水龙头洗锅，重做。然后他准备了四个柠檬塔，给楼下客人。接着开始做Saint-Honore。虽然聊着天，但是手头一刻不停。我不想他又烧焦一锅焦糖，就离开了。临走时行了贴面礼。
我本来想问他什么，或者拍个照片留恋，但是都忘记了。见到他时，仿佛就有了答案，继续工作，有耐心，保持干净，注意细节，全身心投入。其实他什么都教给我了。
红孩儿市场比以前还兴旺，多了好些饭店，外面是书店和花店，还有卖碟的。逛了一圈后，买了一盆兰花当做礼物，不管能否见着。其实我去巴黎的目的就是想见他。
于是信步走到他的店。店外朴素得不像是一家高档甜点店，没有招牌，没有橱窗展示，只有灰色和白色的logo。走进店里，可能是周日的早上，更是有些冷清，光线有些暗淡，除了一如既往地摆放的焦糖，巧克力，水果软糖之外，多了好些榛果酱巧克力糖果和方形巧克力。原来喝茶的位置变成甜点柜台，但种类很少，只有一个flan和一些巧克力塔。于是我买了焦糖，两盒巧克力，一块flan，一个覆盆子塔。
好不容易买完了，问店员：Genin先生在不在，可不可以见几分钟。回答说：他正在忙着，没有时间。我说我十年前是这里的实习生，想送花给他。于是店员欣然上楼通报。回来说Genin先生让我上楼。我毫不犹豫地就上楼了。
跟许多餐厅的厨房在地下室或者深藏在店后面不一样，Genin先生的厨房是在二楼，有宽大的玻璃窗，良好的自然光和街景。进去之后百感交集，多么熟悉而有久违的地方。只有先生一个人在工作。我不确定他是否还认识我。是啊，十几年前，只呆了两月的实习生，之后没有任何联系。多少实习生走马灯似的来来去去。但是他很热情，先是行贴面礼，然后问我怎么样。我跟他说起来，在美国用了十年拿到绿卡，十一年以后终于有了自己的家庭小店。他边听边准备Paris-Brest。我说不知道什么时候可以开店经济独立，他说必须要有耐心（Il fait la patience）。我又告诉他旧金山的法式甜点卖很贵。他只是问，那好吃吗。我说一般。我又给他看我做的草莓蛋糕和饼干。我拿手机的手都有些颤抖了，因为很激动。这时候他的焦糖烧焦了，他熬不犹豫地倒掉烧坏的焦糖，开水龙头洗锅，重做。然后他准备了四个柠檬塔，给楼下客人。接着开始做Saint-Honore。虽然聊着天，但是手头一刻不停。我不想他又烧焦一锅焦糖，就离开了。临走时行了贴面礼。
我本来想问他什么，或者拍个照片留恋，但是都忘记了。见到他时，仿佛就有了答案，继续工作，有耐心，保持干净，注意细节，全身心投入。其实他什么都教给我了。
