If you visit some of the French pastry shops in the bay area, you will see Valrhona chocolate specially listed in the ingredients. You may wonder what it is. I learned the name "Valrhona" in France. They say it's the best chocolate in France, and all the top chefs work with Valrhona.
When I interned at the Chocolate store Jaques Genin, I saw different kinds of Valrhona chocolates. There are several kinds of black chocolate, such as Araguani, Caraibe, and Manjari, and there is milk chocolate called Javari. There is white chocolate called Ivoire. What do these names mean, and what is their difference? Later, I learned that Pastry Chef Albéric Guironnet created Valrhona chocolate in 1922 in a small southern village called Tain L'Hermitage. The founder was dedicated to creating unique, artisan-quality chocolate with complex, balanced, and consistent flavors. "Valrhona" comes from the valley of Rhona, a gastronomic region for wine. They have created a range of unique and recognizable aromatic profiles by using cocoa beans from different terroir, which gained its reputation among the leading chefs in France and worldwide.
This chocolate is also called laboratory chocolate. We can temper it, make it into chocolate candies, and use it in pastries. The ingredients include cocoa, cocoa butter, sugar, milk, and an emulsifier. The percentage of cocoa is marked on the label. Like See's Candy and Ghirardelli, their chocolate is chocolate candy. They are too sweet to taste, and I wonder how much sugar is added and how much cocoa is left.
I have worked with three of the black chocolate.
One is Aragunai, 72%. It is made from rare cocoa beans in Venezuela. The taste can be compared to great wines with high tannins and long-lasting flavors on the palate. It is perfect for making hot chocolate.
One is Caraibe, 66%. It is made from a blend of cocoa beans from Caribbean islands: the Dominican Republic, Ecuador, Jamaica, and Togo. The taste is a balance of smooth chocolate and roasted dry fruit with a slightly oaky finish. It was created in 1988 and is the most popular flavor among children. I used it for the chocolate tart, cookies, mousse cake, and Earl Grey truffle.
The third one is Manjari, 64%. It is made from rare cocoa beans from Madagascar. The taste is fresh, acidic, and sharp bouquets of red fruits note. I have used it for chocolate sable cookies, cakes, and Earl Grey truffles.
In the beginning, I am not sure which black chocolate to choose. Gradually I found that Caraibe is very balanced. I can use it by itself and easily pair it with many flavors. It works excellent with Earl Grey, mint, or citrus. Manjari has more flavors of blackcurrants, raspberry, cranberry, and sour cherries, which is a good match with champagne, whisky, or kirsch. Everyone has their preference. You will gradually explore and discover the flavor you like more. Like wine tasting, good chocolate has a complex and rich flavor. I continue to explore and report to you next time.
关于Valrhona巧克力
最早听到Valrhona的介绍是这样的：Valrhona是法国最好的巧克力，所有的高级甜点店和大厨都选用这个品牌。另外一个高品质的法国巧克力品牌是Barry，大众甜点店会选用这个牌子。在Jaques Genin的巧克力店工作见到的是各种类型Valrhona巧克力。记得用得很多的黑巧克力是Araguani，Caraibe, 牛奶巧克力是Javari，白巧克力是Ivoire。当时并不知道这些名字的意思和区别。
后来了解到，Valrhona巧克力工厂于1922年创立于法国东南部小村子Tain L’Hermitage，已经是百年老店。当时的创立人立志于生产口味独一无二，体现工匠精神的巧克力。Valrhona是Val 和 Rhona两个词的组合，意为罗纳河谷，也是法国葡萄酒著名产区之一，意为秉承这一区域的美食传统。Valrhona选取各个产区的巧克力豆，开发出一系列口味复杂，平衡而有耐人寻味的巧克力，成为业界翘楚。
这些巧克力又被业界称作调温巧克力（chocolat laboratoire），调温后可以用于制作各种口味，形状的巧克力糖和甜点。调温巧克力的主要成分是可可，可可脂，糖，牛奶和乳化剂。百分比是指可可含量。旧金山这边代表性的See’s Candy或者Ghirardelli应该叫做巧克力糖，不知道里面加了多少糖，可可含量有多少，吃起来几乎就是甜味。
黑巧克力我接触过的品种有72%的Araguani，巧克力豆来自单一产区委内瑞拉。堪比一瓶高单宁，口感持久的葡萄酒。Genin会拿来做热巧克力的。我比较熟悉的品种是66%的加勒比（Caraibe）。创立于1988年，是Valrhona的代表性产品，也是最受小孩欢迎的巧克力。 巧克力豆是来自加勒比群岛诸国：多米尼加共和国，厄瓜多尔，牙买加和多哥的巧克力豆混合。味道比较平衡，中间口味是干果味，余味为橡木味。我使用的另外一个品种是64%的Manjari，巧克力豆来自单一产区马达加斯加，微酸，有淡淡的红色浆果味。
用来做伯爵红茶松露巧克力的是Caraibe。做威士忌口味的是Manjari。还分别用这两种巧克力制作了薄荷和香槟味松露。巧克力慕斯蛋糕是用的caraibe，巧克力莎布蕾饼干则是用的Manjari。
其实刚开始我也傻傻的分不清这两种巧克力有什么区别，该用哪种。后来渐渐发现Caraibe口味比较平衡，几乎是百搭，和伯爵红茶，薄荷，柑橘类都很搭。而Manjari口味偏重黑加仑，覆盆子，蔓越莓，酸樱桃这类浆果，可以和酒类搭配。但是对每一种搭配的偏好见仁见智，慢慢品尝会发现自己喜欢的味道。而巧克力香味的复杂性可以和葡萄酒相比，品尝写出来又是一大篇，留待下次。
最早听到Valrhona的介绍是这样的：Valrhona是法国最好的巧克力，所有的高级甜点店和大厨都选用这个品牌。另外一个高品质的法国巧克力品牌是Barry，大众甜点店会选用这个牌子。在Jaques Genin的巧克力店工作见到的是各种类型Valrhona巧克力。记得用得很多的黑巧克力是Araguani，Caraibe, 牛奶巧克力是Javari，白巧克力是Ivoire。当时并不知道这些名字的意思和区别。
后来了解到，Valrhona巧克力工厂于1922年创立于法国东南部小村子Tain L’Hermitage，已经是百年老店。当时的创立人立志于生产口味独一无二，体现工匠精神的巧克力。Valrhona是Val 和 Rhona两个词的组合，意为罗纳河谷，也是法国葡萄酒著名产区之一，意为秉承这一区域的美食传统。Valrhona选取各个产区的巧克力豆，开发出一系列口味复杂，平衡而有耐人寻味的巧克力，成为业界翘楚。
这些巧克力又被业界称作调温巧克力（chocolat laboratoire），调温后可以用于制作各种口味，形状的巧克力糖和甜点。调温巧克力的主要成分是可可，可可脂，糖，牛奶和乳化剂。百分比是指可可含量。旧金山这边代表性的See’s Candy或者Ghirardelli应该叫做巧克力糖，不知道里面加了多少糖，可可含量有多少，吃起来几乎就是甜味。
黑巧克力我接触过的品种有72%的Araguani，巧克力豆来自单一产区委内瑞拉。堪比一瓶高单宁，口感持久的葡萄酒。Genin会拿来做热巧克力的。我比较熟悉的品种是66%的加勒比（Caraibe）。创立于1988年，是Valrhona的代表性产品，也是最受小孩欢迎的巧克力。 巧克力豆是来自加勒比群岛诸国：多米尼加共和国，厄瓜多尔，牙买加和多哥的巧克力豆混合。味道比较平衡，中间口味是干果味，余味为橡木味。我使用的另外一个品种是64%的Manjari，巧克力豆来自单一产区马达加斯加，微酸，有淡淡的红色浆果味。
用来做伯爵红茶松露巧克力的是Caraibe。做威士忌口味的是Manjari。还分别用这两种巧克力制作了薄荷和香槟味松露。巧克力慕斯蛋糕是用的caraibe，巧克力莎布蕾饼干则是用的Manjari。
其实刚开始我也傻傻的分不清这两种巧克力有什么区别，该用哪种。后来渐渐发现Caraibe口味比较平衡，几乎是百搭，和伯爵红茶，薄荷，柑橘类都很搭。而Manjari口味偏重黑加仑，覆盆子，蔓越莓，酸樱桃这类浆果，可以和酒类搭配。但是对每一种搭配的偏好见仁见智，慢慢品尝会发现自己喜欢的味道。而巧克力香味的复杂性可以和葡萄酒相比，品尝写出来又是一大篇，留待下次。